Come Join Us at the Food Forest this Saturday!

We will be working at the food forest on the 1st and 3rd Saturdays of each month from 10am-12pm. The food forest is located at 4700 Irvine St in Hazelwood. It was 4 adjacent vacant lots owned by the URA and now hosts a diversity of edible and otherwise functional tree, bush and groundcover species.

Please come on down, bring a friend and have some fun working in community! Thank you to all of you who have been down this season. Your help is vital to making this a productive and useful space.

There is so much to do and so much that can be done! This week, Saturday June 4th from 10am-12pm, we will be:

Weeding (but of course, gotta keep the knotweed down!)

Mulching- we have a huge pile of wood chips to spread out on the front path

Making sun tea! As long as the sun is shining. We have spearmint on site that is just waiting to become tea.

Pondering the plant landscape and changes that have taken place since last year. Not only the changes that we have instigated but also how the plant community itself has responded to our work.

 

In other news, the food forest is open to hosting projects. We have some specific areas that we would like to partner with interested people on, including soil and plant testing, soil remediation, understory design work, front entrance design work, and more! Please contact Michelle at mczolba@yahoo.com if you would like to speak further about the opportunities.

Hope to see you at the food forest on Saturday at 10am!

The plastic bag, stick and a brick trick!

This is a quick and easy way to train fruit trees to get the branch angle you want.

Materials list:

  • A couple plastic grocery bags
  • A straight stick or piece of bamboo
  • A few small rocks
  • A fruit tree you want to train

BEFORE

Apple tree with upright branch that requires training

An apple tree with an upright branch that requires training.

If you have a tree like the one above which has a branch with too steep of an angle and you want to train it out but it is too big to use the clothes pin trick but still has flexibility to it, this method may do the trick.

  1. The first thing you want to do is place one grocery bag inside the other and poke a few small holes through both of them to let any water drain out.
  2. Next you want to carefully place the handles of your bags on the branch you want to train. Space them out a bit so you don’t stress the branch too much in one spot. Obviously this is easier earlier in the year because there are fewer branches and leaves to contend with.
  3. Now that your bags are placed on the branch, slowly add your small rocks until the weight brings the branch down to the height you are looking for. Do not just plop a big old rock or brick in there without knowing how much weight you need!
  4. Finally put your stick down through the bag and, piercing the bags, slide the stick through and stake the stick in the ground. The stake helps to keep the wind from blowing the bag around too much, as well as control the lateral direction of the branch as well.
  5. Check the branch every now and then for chaffing and to make sure the training is working. After a few months you’ll be able to remove the bags (with scissors) and the branch will hold the new angle.

Have fun and good luck!

AFTER

A branch trained with grocery bags, a stick and some small rocks.

A branch trained with grocery bags, a stick and some small rocks.

An Herbalists’ Permaculture Landscape

One of the best ways to assess a site is to observe it for at least one year. This plan for my backyard has been in the works for almost two years now.  I have made certain changes due to the encompassing urban landscape and the sometimes undesirable situations that it brings.

  • Rats- there apparently had been a water feature in the yard that somewhere along the way became a rat burrow. We filled the hole with 1” river stone. The area still appears to be retaining water more than the rest of the landscape.
  • Bamboo reed fence- the property is adjacent to a busy alley and the fence creates privacy, acts as a pollutant and litter buffer and was relatively inexpensive ($150 for 96’ length). Why not plant bamboo or willow? This is something perhaps for the future. For now, I didn’t want to cut down the existing arborvitae trees.

Permaculture design satisfies human needs while working in cooperation with nature. This means I can have an ecologically healthy landscape and grow everything that I want! It also is a design system which makes efficient use of energy by mimicking nature and working with the landscape rather than seeking to subdue it. Energy conservation=more time to smell the roses!

So now onto the concept design.

You may notice the heavy emphasis on medicinal plants. There are many zone types represented in this 1,268’ triangular yard (remember how to calculate the area of a triangle right? ;). Let’s explore these in a bit more depth..

Wild Zone

This is the farthest tip of the yard, already home to morning glory (link to useful plants site) and not super accessible. Adding to the existing plant population will increase privacy, biodiversity and bird habitat.

Useful Covers/Field

The field is the transition zone from the wild to the more domesticated areas. All of these covers are useful medicinally, as insectaries, nitrogen fixers and/or soil builders. Also adds beauty.

Shade Zones

The shade is produced by a large mulberry tree (non-fruiting) and arborvitaes. I will try my hand at growing some of our native, at-risk medicinals- ginseng, etc- and pawpaws love the shade. A pawpaw guild is very possible.

Moist Zones

Like I said, the area around the old burrow seems to be retaining moisture even though logic would say stones= fast drainage. Tall plants will be placed towards the fence and the old burrow will be lined with violets. I will also create an elder guild with valerian, yarrow, astragalus and some raspberries. All of these are edible/medicinal species. Many sources will tell you that elder likes moist areas. I have found conflicting information on this and have seen thickets doing quite well in dry areas.

White Horse

Full to part sun area that is already partially established with the sun and dry-loving Mediterranean herbs sage, hyssop, lavender and chamomile. The St. John’s Wort will also be an effective insectary.

Part Sun Edge

I will attempt to grow blue and other berries in the sunnier spots, along with conehead flowers. Comfrey will be planted as a mulch-producing groundcover.

Raised Beds

1 is in a full sun area and so tomatoes, peppers, cukes, etc will live there. 2 is part sun and will hold the brassicas, lettuces and other cooler weather lovers. I always intersperse my vegetable plants with herbs and flowers. This draws in beneficial insects and utilizes the practice of companion planting, where certain plants grow well with others. Both of these beds follow a keyhole design and were made by sheet mulched raised beds. The sheet mulch layers are: last year’s beds and cut down old growth; compost; newspaper/cardboard; more compost; and leaf mulch. On bed 2 were also added the contents of the compost bin which ranged from partially to fully composted material. It should be a very rich and fertile soil.

Strong Sun

This will be established with aromatic and medicinal vines- jasmine, passionflower- and hedges/herbs- roses, thyme, flowers. The vines will be propped on a trellis, providing some shade to the sun room to make it habitable in mid-summer. Imagine warm summer evenings with the scent of jasmine and roses in the air…lovely.

Peach Tree

Not really a zone, per se, but right now this is an intense, heat retaining area with concrete and brick and full sun. The peach tree will stay in a pot and will provide some shade to the house and HVAC system. Peach trees also succumb to rots more easily in moist conditions so the dryness should suit it well.

We have a very narrow space for a rain barrel which will take some searching to find the right fit. The intensive raised beds are liberally mulched. Moist and dry areas are matched with the appropriate plant species to conserve or use water most efficiently. For compost, a bin is used along with composting in place. The leaves from the mulberry tree are added to the raised beds in the fall.

The plan is quite ambitious! I hope to add 58 species to a 1,268’ heavily urban space. This is what permaculture is all about though! Diversity adds interest, use, habitat, resilience and much more. Here is a breakdown of plant type and number:

16 vegetables

5 fruits

33 herbs/flowers

4 trees

Finally, as with most plans, this acts as more of a template than something that I will follow exactly. The landscape is ever evolving, depending upon survival rates, what the nursery has in stock and what naturally thrives best. This plan is about conceptualizing natural patterns and using this to hone in to the finer details.